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Think of a door strike as the invisible handshake between your door and its frame — small, unassuming, and absolutely critical. Swap a flimsy strike for a heavy-duty one and you instantly improve resistance to forced entry, reduce door misalignment, and extend the life of your lockset. Whether you’re securing a storefront or fixing a drafty entry in a single-family home, the strike is the unsung hero that keeps things together.
These are the classic strike plates that sit on the frame and receive the latch bolt. They’re inexpensive, easy to install, and ideal for most residential applications. You’ll find them in finishes like satin nickel and antiqued brass, and thicknesses commonly range from about 1/16 inch to 1/8 inch. Use them when you’re replacing worn plates or upgrading for a cleaner fit.
Electric strikes replace the fixed strike plate with an electrically controlled keeper that releases the latch when energized. They’re the go-to for access control, intercoms, and smart lock integrations. Magnetic strikes use a strong magnet to hold the door and are common on commercial entrances where fast access is needed. Electric and magnetic strikes require power and sometimes wiring through the frame, but they pay off when remote release or timed access matters.
Mortise strikes are built for doors with mortise locksets — deeper, more substantial locks often used in commercial buildings. Cylindrical strikes match standard knob or lever locks. The difference isn’t just nomenclature; it affects cutout size, backset, and the frame reinforcement you’ll need. Pick the strike type that matches the lock’s body to avoid shimmying or misfires.
Stainless steel and hardened alloys are the winners when durability matters. A strike made of 304 stainless or a hardened steel keeper resists prying and wears less over time. Brass looks great but can soften under heavy use. If your door sees heavy traffic or lives on the street side, lean toward steel and reinforced options — think pounds of force, not just looks.
ANSI/ BHMA grading helps you compare apples to apples. Grade 1 is the top-tier commercial standard for strength and durability, often required for public buildings and high-security installs. Grade 2 is solid for residential and light commercial, while Grade 3 is basic residential. Consider Grade 1 for exterior doors that must withstand a lot of abuse; it’s like wearing a steel-toe boot instead of a sneaker.
Your strike has to fit the lock’s backset and the door frame’s cutout. A mismatch causes sticking, short throw, or gaps that let weather in. Check whether the lock is cylindrical, mortise, or deadbolt-only and match the strike’s lip and keeper style. Ask: is the frame wood, metal, or aluminum storefront? Each material needs a specific strike and possibly reinforcement plates or additional screws.
Measure the latch projection, backset, and the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the lock in inches. Install in the center of the strike cavity and chisel carefully — a few thousandths of an inch can make the door stick. Using a template and a square makes this as easy as baking cookies: follow the pattern and you’ll get consistent, clean cuts.
Wiring a powered strike needs basic electrical know-how: 12 or 24 volts is common, and you must match the strike’s voltage and fail-safe/fail-secure configuration to your access control system. Fail-secure keeps the door locked when power is off (good for security), while fail-safe unlocks when power is removed (good for life-safety egress). If you’re not comfortable with low-voltage wiring, hire a pro — a botched wire can make a locked door permanently stuck.
On exterior doors, a strike that leaves a gap can let wind or water in. Use a strike plate with an overlapping lip or add a neoprene gasket for better sealing in wet weather. Also check the threshold alignment: if the door sags, the strike won’t line up. Sometimes the fix is as simple as tightening hinges or adding longer screws into the frame’s studs for better pull-out resistance.
Home Depot is a one-stop for homeowners and contractors alike, with an extensive selection of mechanical and electric strikes from brands like Schlage, Kwikset, and Yale. Prices range from under $10 for basic strike plates to several hundred dollars for commercial electric strikes. The advantage? You can inspect finishes in-store, grab screws or a template, and pick up a drill bit or chisel on the same run.
Lowe’s offers comparable inventory and often emphasizes DIY installation kits and how-to guides. They stock brands popular with homeowners and carry a selection of ANSI-rated products for light commercial projects. Lowe’s is a solid choice if you want friendly staff advice, price-matching, and straightforward return/exchange experiences — especially when measurements aren’t lining up the first time.
Ace stores shine for last-minute fixes and specialty items. Local Ace locations often stock less-common strike sizes and can order specific finishes. If you want a friendly face to ask whether a 3/8-inch lip or a 1/2-inch is better for your door, Ace’s local service model makes troubleshooting easier — like chatting with a trusted neighbor over the fence.
For Midwestern shoppers, Menards offers competitive pricing and frequent promotions that make it attractive if you’re outfitting several doors. They carry both residential and light-commercial hardware and sometimes bundle hardware sets at lower per-unit costs. If you’re managing a multi-door job, that bulk advantage can save both time and dollars.
Amazon lists everything from budget strike plates to niche electric strikes from specialty manufacturers. The pros: access to user reviews, quick price comparisons, and often next-day shipping if you’re a Prime member. The cons: quality and authenticity vary, and installation support is minimal. Read reviews closely and buy from reputable sellers or brand-authorized stores to avoid counterfeit hardware.
Need Grade 1 strikes, heavy-duty keeper assemblies, or custom-size parts? Grainger and McMaster-Carr are geared toward contractors and engineers. They carry robust inventory for commercial projects, including corrosion-resistant strikes and high-cycle electric strikes. Expect premium pricing but also reliable specifications, datasheets, and parts that meet stricter building codes.
Build.com and Ferguson focus on professionals and serious DIYers, offering extended product specs and compatibility filters. SupplyHouse also stocks many commercial components and is a great resource when you need a specific mortise strike or an UL-listed electric strike. These sites often include technical support lines or installation notes geared to professionals handling larger installs.
Basic strike plates often cost under $15, mid-range reinforced plates and specialty finishes tend to fall between $20 and $75, while commercial electric strikes and high-security mortise strikes can run $100 to $400 or more. Warranties vary; consumer-grade products might carry a one-year warranty, while commercial hardware often includes multi-year coverage or lifetime mechanical warranties. Want to save? Buy bundled kits for multiple doors, watch for seasonal promotions at big-box stores, or choose industrial distributors for volume discounts. Still not sure? Compare specs rather than just sticker price — a $50 heavy-duty strike may save you hundreds in future repairs.
For businesses, schools, and high-traffic buildings, choose Grade 1 hardware, reinforced backboxes, and electric strikes that meet fire and egress codes. Consider panic hardware and fail-safe vs. fail-secure configurations based on code requirements and safety protocols. It’s like choosing a commercial truck instead of a pickup — built to take sustained loads and a lot more durable under stress.
In homes, focus on compatibility, easy installation, and finishes that match your décor. Choose Grade 2 or Grade 1 for exterior doors if you prioritize security. Use longer screws into the door frame’s stud for better holding power and add a reinforced strike plate if you have a history of forced entries or curious raccoons.
Smart lock adoption has pushed electric strikes and wireless release mechanisms into mainstream use. Modern systems pair with Wi‑Fi hubs or access control panels so you can release doors from a phone or integrate with building automation. If you’re upgrading, look for units with standard wiring protocols and available fail-safe/fail-secure modes. Compatibility is king — a well-integrated system is like a synchronized orchestra rather than a bunch of soloists.
Measure twice: backset, latch projection, door thickness, and frame type — all in inches. Confirm ANSI grade for required security. Match the strike to the lock type — cylindrical, mortise, or deadbolt. Choose materials that suit exterior exposure and traffic levels. Decide between fail-safe and fail-secure for powered strikes based on life-safety needs. Factor in budget for professional installation if wiring or frame reinforcement is necessary. With that checklist, you’ll walk into the purchase with confidence instead of guessing.
Choosing the right door strike is a small decision with a big payoff: better security, smoother operation, and fewer worry wrinkles. Whether you shop at large chains like Home Depot or Lowe’s, local Ace Hardware, online marketplaces, or specialty distributors like Grainger, the key is matching the product to the job. Treat the strike like the foundation of a house — small, but everything rests on it.
| Door Strikes | Price | |
|---|---|---|
| Hes Electric Strike Body Only Narrow Style 5200 | $ 251,16 |
